Global Baking Traditions: Cultural Heritage, Personal Journeys, and Culinary Innovation - Episode Hero Image

Global Baking Traditions: Cultural Heritage, Personal Journeys, and Culinary Innovation

Good Food · · Listen to Original Episode →
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TL;DR

  • Subtle Asian Baking's rapid growth to 160,000 members within a year highlights a significant unmet demand for a dedicated online community focused on Asian baking recipes and flavors.
  • Kat Lieu's "not too sweet" approach to Asian desserts, tempering sweetness with savory elements like miso or soy sauce, reflects a cultural preference and offers a distinct flavor profile.
  • The shift from physical therapy to baking for Kat Lieu was catalyzed by her father's passing, prompting a reevaluation of life's recipe and a pursuit of personal dreams.
  • Maureen Abood's simplified baklava method, stacking filo dough and pouring clarified butter over the top before baking, makes a traditionally time-consuming pastry more approachable for home bakers.
  • Clarified butter is essential for baklava to prevent burnt solids from appearing on the pastry, and using cultured European butter significantly enhances aroma and flavor.
  • Laurel Kratochvila's bialy dough, described as similar to a long-fermented pizza dough, offers a distinct texture and versatility compared to traditional bagel dough, allowing for diverse flavor combinations.
  • Jürgen Krauss's Christmas Linzer Torte, incorporating cocoa powder, kirsch, and amaretto, develops a richer flavor and improved texture when stored for several weeks, emphasizing the value of patience.
  • German Stollen evolved from a lean fasting bread to a rich, celebratory loaf, with its modern iteration requiring long storage to fully develop its complex flavors and textures.

Deep Dive

The holiday season offers a rich landscape for culinary exploration, with bakers worldwide drawing on diverse traditions to create festive treats. This episode of "Good Food" highlights how global baking practices, from Asian-inspired cookies to traditional German Christmas fare, serve as both expressions of cultural heritage and pathways for personal discovery and career pivots. The conversations reveal that baking is not merely about recipes, but also about preserving memory, embracing identity, and forging new connections through shared culinary experiences.

The episode delves into the nuanced world of Asian baking, exemplified by Kat Lieu's journey from physical therapy to authoring "108 Asian Cookie Recipes." Lieu emphasizes the "not too sweet" philosophy prevalent in many East and Southeast Asian desserts, a contrast to Western palates, often achieved by balancing sweetness with salty elements like miso or soy sauce. Her community, Subtle Asian Baking, grew organically from a need for a shared space for these recipes, demonstrating how digital platforms can foster cultural preservation and charitable giving. Lieu's personal pivot, catalyzed by her father's passing, underscores how baking can become a profound act of self-discovery and a way to honor family legacy, translating diverse cultural influences into creative, personalized treats like snowflake crisps and black sesame cheesecake cookies.

Maureen Abood's "Lebanese Baking" explores another rich culinary tradition, demystifying complex pastries like baklava and kanafeh for home bakers. Abood simplifies traditional methods, such as using clarified butter and a simplified assembly for baklava, making these elaborate desserts more approachable. She highlights the adaptability of these recipes, noting how ingredients like panko can substitute for traditional kataifi dough, and how readily available mozzarella can stand in for harder-to-find Middle Eastern cheeses in kanafeh. This approach makes heritage baking accessible, bridging the gap between professional bakery quality and home kitchen feasibility.

Laurel Kratochvila, an American baker in Berlin, brings a unique perspective to Polish baking in her book "Doughnut Doughnut," which focuses on Jewish culinary traditions. She connects the historical fluidity of Polish borders and cultural exchanges to its diverse foodways, from sour pickles to challah and bagels. Kratochvila distinguishes the bialy from the bagel, presenting it as an underappreciated Polish-Jewish specialty with its own distinct dough and preparation, offering modern interpretations such as sourdough bialys with potatoes and nigella seeds. Her work emphasizes how baking can be a means of reclaiming and celebrating ancestral foodways, even in new cultural contexts.

Jürgen Krauss, a beloved "Great British Bake Off" contestant, shares insights into German Christmas baking through his cookbook, "The German Christmas Cookbook." Krauss details the evolution of traditional German treats like Lebkuchen and Stollen, moving from lean, fasting-period breads to rich, celebratory confections. He explains the historical context of German Christmas markets as evolving craft fairs and highlights the specific spice profiles and textures of German gingerbread and the importance of aging for Stollen and Linzer Torte. Krauss's approach reflects a deep appreciation for tradition, patience, and the "Vorfreude"--the joy of anticipation--inherent in holiday baking.

Finally, Bill Addison, restaurant critic for the LA Times, spotlights Sora Craft Kitchen, a Turkish restaurant offering a taste of regional Turkish cuisine. Chef Ok Enock, with fine dining experience, presents unique dishes like "kittel," a variation of kibbeh specific to his mother's hometown, and a fermented cabbage soup. His butternut squash dessert, prepared using a technique akin to nixtamalization, showcases a blend of heritage flavors and refined execution. The restaurant's intimate, one-man-band operation adds to its unique charm, emphasizing the personal touch behind authentic culinary experiences.

Together, these narratives illustrate how holiday baking traditions are vibrant, adaptable, and deeply personal. They demonstrate that exploring global cuisines through baking offers not only delicious results but also profound connections to history, identity, and community, while also enabling significant personal and professional transformations.

Action Items

  • Create Subtle Asian Baking community guidelines: Define 5 core principles for recipe sharing and member interaction to foster a positive and inclusive online environment.
  • Audit 108 Asian cookie recipes: Categorize by difficulty (1-5 stars) and primary flavor profile (e.g., sweet, salty-sweet, savory) to inform recipe selection for a cookie exchange.
  • Design a "Third Culture Kitchen" recipe template: Include sections for ingredient substitution (e.g., Western vs. Asian), flavor tempering techniques, and cultural context to encourage creative baking.
  • Track 3-5 "not too sweet" baking experiments: Document ingredient ratios and flavor combinations (e.g., miso, soy sauce, MSG) to identify successful methods for balancing sweetness.
  • Develop a 3-step process for clarifying butter: Outline the method for removing milk solids to ensure crispier, visually appealing baked goods, applicable to 5 different pastry types.

Key Quotes

"So subtle asian baking was a group that i founded in may of 2020 right around the height of covid and i was missing like a lot of the asian bakery goodies that you can get easily when you're not in quarantine or like the food that my mom would make in new york city so i used to live in new york but back then and then i moved to the renton area and she was still in new york so i really wanted to try new recipes on my own but when i googled asian baking or asian baking recipes back in 2020 there really was none there was no collective space for those recipes so when you see something missing and i'm the type of person who likes to build things and i said i'm going to make my own community"

Kat Lieu explains that she founded Subtle Asian Baking in May 2020 because she missed Asian bakery items and found a lack of online resources for these recipes. Lieu, a builder by nature, created the community to fill this void. This demonstrates her proactive approach to addressing unmet needs in the culinary space.


"In east asian culture and some southeast asian cultures as well the treats and the desserts are actually not that sweet so you could easily find pork floss in a chiffon cake salty and sweet together you can find scallion and eggs on a pastry and the taste is not that sweet because we actually use less sugar and we temper a lot of the sweetness with something salty like i had mentioned be it miso or soy sauce or furu which is fermented bean curd sometimes you can even add msg very very popular across asia to find treats like that not predominantly sweet a cookie that it has frosting and fondant not as common um it's more of a of more of a french culture influence so if you go to like japanese bakeries as well it's not so much of the american buttercream that you find but more of the heavy cream buttercream that's made with less sugar and more of the cream parts"

Kat Lieu highlights a key characteristic of East and Southeast Asian desserts: their reduced sweetness. Lieu explains that this is achieved by using less sugar and balancing sweetness with salty elements like miso or soy sauce. This approach contrasts with Western-style desserts that often feature heavy buttercream and fondant, showcasing a distinct flavor philosophy.


"So yeah mentioned the subtitle before not too sweet treats from a third cultural kitchen third culture is my background being someone who was born in montreal raised by vietnamese chinese parents who define success as becoming a doctor who also introduced me to a lot of flavors growing up so i had vietnamese food from my father's side a lot of chinese food from my mom's side but my dad also loved burgers and my mom also loved pasta so i got to experience all these flavors and then in montreal my grandparents were foodies they would take me to curry buffets and japanese buffets so there they taught me how to eat like avocados and poutines and matcha as a six year old you know six year old having matcha back in like the 1990s right so i was like one of the first people who ate matcha that was cool in the west so yeah it because of all these cultures and heritage and influence and flavors that i got to try it really did influence me in the kitchen because i get to be so bold with what i use in my cookies"

Kat Lieu describes her "third culture kitchen" as a reflection of her upbringing, influenced by Vietnamese, Chinese, and Western cuisines. Lieu explains that this diverse exposure from a young age allowed her to develop a bold and experimental approach to baking. This background directly informs her creative use of ingredients in her cookies.


"And then i thought i don't want to end up like this following other people's footsteps living the recipe of life that other people had written for me i need to start dreaming because being a doctor of physical therapy was not my decision honestly maybe life is a little different now for people growing up in a third culture environment but my parents really did push me into healthcare they defined success as healthcare they didn't think that i could be successful as a creative but with his passing i thought you know that was a release and i thought you know maybe now it's time for me to dream and this was his blessing to me too that i can dream for the two of us now and whatever my dreams are that i fulfill are his as well"

Kat Lieu shares that her father's sudden passing prompted a significant life change, leading her to abandon her physical therapy career to pursue her passion for baking. Lieu explains that her parents had pushed her towards healthcare, defining success in that field, but his death served as a catalyst for her to "start dreaming." This moment of realization allowed her to embrace her creative aspirations, honoring both her own desires and her father's legacy.


"She stacked in the filo dough commercial filo dough put in the filling stacked another section of the filo dough on top cut it and poured clarified butter over the top letting that sink in for just a couple of minutes and then bake the whole thing afterwards as is usual pour cold flower water syrup over the top you're going to hear a wonderful sizzle and with this it just takes out some of the time commitment now i have cousins and others in the family who remind me that it can be really meditative and lovely buttering every layer and that is true but for those of us who want to simplify this and maybe haven't made it before this method makes it more approachable and it comes out just as crisp just as light and delicious and when we pour the butter over the filo dough"

Maureen Abood presents a simplified method for making Lebanese baklava, inspired by her great aunt Rita. Abood explains that instead of buttering each individual layer of phyllo dough, her aunt stacked sections of dough with filling in between, then poured clarified butter over the entire assembly before baking. Abood notes that this technique makes the process more approachable for home bakers while still yielding a crisp and delicious result.


"The clarified butter is essential because what you're doing with that is as you melt the butter you're separating the solids from the butter fat and those solids if left in you just pouring melted butter over the top that isn't clarified when you bake the betlawa you'll get little black specks all over the pastry it may taste okay it doesn't look good it's never done really and one note about the clarified butter is that when you use cultured butter or european style butter the aroma and flavor is exponentially richer it's higher in butter fat as well but it's just takes it elevates the betlawa experience and clarifying it is easier in a sense because those solids they just drop to the bottom of your pan many butters when you melt them you get this foaminess on top of those solids and you have to skim them off okay"

Maureen Abood emphasizes the importance of using clarified butter in baklava preparation. Abood explains that clarifying butter separates the milk solids, preventing them from burning and creating unsightly black specks on the pastry. She also notes that using cultured or European-style butter enhances the aroma and flavor, elevating the overall baklava experience.


"So part of why i really wanted a bialy

Resources

External Resources

Books

  • 108 Asian Cookies: Not Too Sweet Treats from a Third Cultural Kitchen by Kat Lieu - Mentioned as a collection of Asian cookie recipes.
  • Lebanese Baking by Maureen Abood - Mentioned as a compilation of traditional and contemporary Lebanese pastries.
  • Dobry Dobry by Laurel Kratochvila - Mentioned as a personal look at Polish baking traditions.
  • The German Christmas Cookbook by Jūrgen Krauss - Mentioned as a collection of seasonal German recipes.

Articles & Papers

  • The Bialy Eaters - Mentioned in relation to the discussion of authentic bialys.

People

  • Kat Lieu - Author of "108 Asian Cookies: Not Too Sweet Treats from a Third Cultural Kitchen," discussed for her online community "Subtle Asian Baking" and her approach to Asian baking.
  • Maureen Abood - Author of "Lebanese Baking," discussed for her passion for Lebanese food traditions.
  • Laurel Kratochvila - Author of "Dobry Dobry," an American baker in Berlin specializing in Polish baking, discussed for her insights into bagels, bialys, and Polish culinary history.
  • Jūrgen Krauss - Author of "The German Christmas Cookbook," a Great British Bake Off contestant, discussed for his German Christmas baking traditions.
  • Bill Addison - Los Angeles Times restaurant critic, discussed for his recommendation of Sora Craft Kitchen.
  • Ok Enock - Chef and owner of Sora Craft Kitchen, discussed for his Turkish cuisine.
  • Evan Kleiman - Host of "Good Food," mentioned in relation to her Substack newsletter.

Organizations & Institutions

  • Subtle Asian Baking - An online community founded by Kat Lieu, discussed for its sharing of Asian baking recipes and fundraising for charity.
  • Sora Craft Kitchen - A Turkish restaurant in DTLA, mentioned for its unique regional Turkish dishes.

Websites & Online Resources

  • kcrw.com/goodfood - Website where recipes from the episode are available.
  • kcrwgoodfood.substack.com - Substack newsletter for "Good Food."

Other Resources

  • Kibe (Kittel) - A Turkish dish discussed as a variation of the Lebanese/Syrian kibe, made with a smooth bulgur dough and a meat filling.
  • Kataifi dough - A shredded pastry dough used as a crust for kanafeh.
  • Placzek dough - A rich Polish baking dough made with egg yolks, similar to panettone dough.
  • Stollen - A traditional German Christmas bread, discussed for its evolution from a lean fasting bread to a rich, celebratory loaf.
  • Lebkuchen - A type of German gingerbread, discussed for its texture and spice profile.
  • Linzer Torte - A traditional Austrian/German torte with a distinctive lattice crust, discussed for its variations and storage.
  • Kanafeh - A Middle Eastern cheese pastry, discussed for its components and variations.
  • Baba au Rum - A yeast cake soaked in rum syrup, discussed for its Polish origins and French popularity.

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