Military Surplus: How War Forged Modern Menswear

Resources

Books

• "Crafted with Pride" - A book project that is a directory of made in USA clothing, footwear, and accessories, organized by product type.
• "Adventures in the Wilderness or Camp Life in the Adirondacks" by William H.H. Murray (Adirondack Murray) - A guidebook published in 1869 that instructed city dwellers on outdoor recreation and dressing the part of an outdoorsman, arguably kickstarting the outdoor recreation industry.
• "Hunting Trips of a Ranchman" by Theodore Roosevelt - A book from 1885, featuring Roosevelt posed in a buckskin suit on the cover, representing his transformation into a rugged frontiersman.
• Theodore Roosevelt's Autobiography - Mentioned as a source of Roosevelt's admiration for his father.

Videos & Documentaries

• None mentioned

Research & Studies

• None mentioned

Tools & Software

• None mentioned

Articles & Papers

• "The New Danger Will Be Peace Rot" (The Arena) - An essay warning about the negative effects of peace on a nation's martial virtues.
• "Man is Morally in His Infancy" (North American Review) by Sarah Grand - An essay discussing the evolving role of women and the need for them to take on more responsibilities.

People Mentioned

• Avery Trufelman (Creator of Articles of Interest) - The host and creator of the podcast "Articles of Interest," being featured in this episode.
• Kyle Fitzgibbons (Chief Design and Creative Officer at Buck Mason) - Discussed the inspiration behind Buck Mason's "classic cool" vision, drawn from vintage military clothing.
• Alex Guley - An ethical shopper who has only bought clothes made in the United States for the last 10 years, and co-author of "Crafted with Pride."
• William H.H. Murray (Adirondack Murray) - Author of "Adventures in the Wilderness," credited with kickstarting the outdoor recreation industry.
• Joshua Kerner (Attorney, War Reenactor, Archival Research Obsessive) - Provided historical insights into military uniforms and their connection to civilian clothing trends, and a frequent reference point for the episode.
• General George Washington - Requested a large number of hunting shirts for the Continental Army to foster unity.
• Thomas Jefferson - Expressed a preference for citizen soldiers over standing armies, influenced by classical ideas.
• Phil Klay (Author and Veteran) - Discussed the history of military service and the concept of the citizen soldier.
• President Trump - Mentioned in the context of ordering the military into American cities.
• Rachel S. Gross (History Professor at the University of Colorado Denver, Author of "Shopping All the Way to the Woods: How the Outdoor Industry Sold Nature to America") - Provided historical context on the meaning attached to clothing and the outdoor industry's relationship with nature.
• Donald Trump Jr. - Mentioned as an example of modern men seeking ruggedness through expensive hunting trips.
• Mark Zuckerberg - Mentioned as an example of modern men seeking ruggedness through outdoor activities like bow hunting.
• Otto von Bismarck - Associated with the "pickle helmet" style adopted by the US Army.
• Theodore Roosevelt - Discussed extensively regarding his personal history, his embrace of the "strenuous life," his political career, and his role in the Spanish-American War.
• Theodore Roosevelt Sr. - Described as a nurturing and influential father figure to Theodore Roosevelt.
• Kristen Hoganson (Professor of History at the University of Illinois) - Provided context on Theodore Roosevelt's embrace of the strenuous life and his ranchman persona.
• William Randolph Hearst - Mentioned for using his newspapers to advocate for US involvement in Cuba.
• President Grover Cleveland - Supported a treaty with Great Britain for arbitration.
• President McKinley - Initially resisted calls for war with Spain but eventually yielded after the USS Maine explosion.
• Honoré de Balzac - Quoted on the idea that an honorable man would fight rather than arbitrate.
• Frances Willard (Leader of the Women's Christian Temperance Union) - Proposed cancelling a Harvard and Yale football game in favor of arbitration.
• Sergeant Major William McBryar - Mentioned in relation to the Rough Riders.
• Buffalo Soldiers - A battalion of Black soldiers who fought alongside Roosevelt's Rough Riders at San Juan Hill.
• Alyssa Parker Giesman (National Park Service) - Met with the host at Theodore Roosevelt's birthplace.
• Charles McFarland (Journalist and Costume Historian) - Acknowledged for his input on military history for "Articles of Interest."
• Yasmine El Sayed (Fact Checker) - Acknowledged for her fact-checking work on "Articles of Interest."
• Ray Royal (Music Composer) - Provided music for "Articles of Interest."
• Sasami (Theme Song Composer) - Provided theme songs for "Articles of Interest."
• Jocelyn Gonzalez (Engineer at PRX) - Mastered and mixed "Articles of Interest."
• Angel Ellis (Iconic Journalist) - Thanked for listening to the episode.
• Audrey Martovich - Acknowledged for her support of "Articles of Interest" through Radiotopia.

Organizations & Institutions

• Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas - Sponsor of the podcast.
• Volkswagen - Sponsor of the podcast.
• Buck Mason - A clothing brand founded in 2013, purveying classic cool clothes inspired by vintage military garments.
• United States Military - Discussed extensively for its influence on clothing design, manufacturing, and the development of industries.
• Old Navy - Mentioned as making cheap imitations of comfortable Korean War era pants.
• Department of Defense - Mentioned in relation to military contracts supporting manufacturers.
• Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site - A national park in Manhattan offering free tours of the site landmarked as Theodore Roosevelt's birthplace.
• University of Colorado Denver - Where Rachel S. Gross is a history professor.
• University of Illinois - Where Kristen Hoganson is a professor of history.
• 7th Cavalry - Mentioned in relation to the Wounded Knee Massacre.
• Edward Jones - Sponsor of the podcast.
• Claude - Sponsor of the podcast.
• PNC Bank - Sponsor of the podcast.
• LinkedIn Ads - Sponsor of the podcast.
• Women's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) - An organization led by Frances Willard.
• Harvard University - Mentioned in relation to its annual football game with Yale.
• Yale University - Mentioned in relation to its annual football game with Harvard.
• Spanish Royal Senate - Rejected a treaty between the US and Great Britain for arbitration.
• Spain - Country from which the US fought for Cuba's independence.
• Republican Party - Theodore Roosevelt was nominated for Vice President at their 1900 convention.
• National Park Service - Represented by Alyssa Parker Giesman.
• Radiotopia - An organization supporting "Articles of Interest."
• DSW - Sponsor of the podcast.

Courses & Educational Resources

• Courses on the military-civilian divide - Mentioned as being taken by college students.

Websites & Online Resources

• Thecosmopolitanoflasvegas.com - Website to book a stay at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas.
• articlesofinterest.substack.com - Website to see images of Theodore Roosevelt's Rough Rider outfit and Buck Mason's military collection.
• claude.ai - Website to try Claude for free.
• linkedin.com/invisible - Website for LinkedIn Ads, with terms and conditions applying.

Other Resources

• Massage Chair - Mentioned as a seemingly extravagant item that becomes practical when paired with a car.
• 2025 Volkswagen Tiguan - A car with available massaging front seats, presented as a practical luxury.
• Khakis, Button-downs, Crisp White T-shirts - Archetypal classic clothing items purveyed by Buck Mason.
• Vintage Clothes - Used by Buck Mason designers as inspiration and for copying details.
• Korean War Era Pants - Described as comfortable and well-designed with practical pockets.
• Made in USA Clothing, Footwear, and Accessories - The focus of Alex Guley's "Crafted with Pride" directory.
• Gore-Tex Jackets, Down Jackets, Kayak and Rafting Gear, Biking Gear, Hunting Gear - Examples of products found in the "Crafted with Pride" guide, often linked to the outdoor industry.
• Military Surplus - The origin of many brands in the outdoor industry, including REI, Patagonia, LL Bean, and Eddie Bauer.
• Internet - Mentioned as an invention of the military.
• Leggings, Runners, Rainproof Shells, Patagonia Vests, Camouflage, Sweatpants - Examples of outdoor performance gear now commonly worn by civilians.
• Arc'teryx - A brand whose clothing is now worn for everyday activities like grocery shopping.
• Buckskin Suits - A style of clothing associated with 19th-century American outdoorsmen, inspired by Native American attire and pioneer imagery.
• Fringe - A decorative element on hunting shirts, evoking a faux indigenous look.
• Linen - The material used to make hunting shirts.
• Liberty or Death - Embroidered on some hunting shirts worn by Virginian militias.
• Army Blue - The historical color of the US military uniform, dating back to the American Revolution.
• British Style Uniforms - Influenced early US military uniforms.
• French Style Uniforms - Influenced US military uniforms in the 1840s.
• Nutcracker Soldiers - A description of the US Army's appearance with French-influenced uniforms.
• Pickle Helmet - A helmet style adopted by the US Army and Marine Corps, influenced by Prussian designs.
• Shoddy - Substandard materials used in Civil War uniforms, leading to garments that would easily fall apart.
• Inspection Stamp (US Inspector) - A mark of approval on military-grade garments during the Civil War.
• Sack Coat - A Civil War era blue flannel coat with gold-tone brass buttons.
• Quartermaster Corps Museum - Located in Fort Lee, Virginia, where samples of American uniform history were viewed.
• Civil War Rifles - Sold off as surplus by Francis Bannerman.
• Plume on Prussian-Inspired Helmet - An example of ornate military dress during perceived peacetime.
• Prussian Influences - Adopted by the US Army in the late 19th century after the Franco-Prussian War.
• Activist and Legislator Group - Pushed for the abolition of war as an antiquated system.
• New Woman - A phenomenon of the 1890s onward, referring to women becoming more active outside the home, in politics, and pursuing education and careers.
• Bloomers - A type of clothing worn by the "new woman."
• Suffrage - The right to vote, which women were actively campaigning for.
• Arbitration - A movement advocating for the settlement of disputes through treaties and negotiation, rather than war.
• Treaty with Great Britain (1897) - A five-year agreement for the US and Great Britain to arbitrate disputes, which was ultimately not ratified by the Senate.
• Cuba - A Spanish colony whose struggle for independence from Spain drew American attention.
• Damsel in Distress - A common representation of Cuba in media advocating for US intervention.
• Concentration Camps - Mentioned in the context of the harsh treatment of Cuban civilians.
• Sugar Plantations in Cuba - Owned by American companies, creating financial interests in US intervention.
• USS Maine - An American ship that exploded in Havana harbor, a key event leading to the Spanish-American War.
• Rough Riders - The First Volunteer Cavalry regiment, led by Theodore Roosevelt during the Spanish-American War.
• San Juan Hill - A battle in Cuba where Theodore Roosevelt and his Rough Riders claimed a significant victory.
• Buffalo Soldiers - A battalion of Black soldiers who fought at San Juan Hill, often minimized in Roosevelt's accounts.
• Spanish-American War - A conflict from 1898 to approximately 1902, resulting in US territorial gains.
• Splendid Little War - A moniker for the Spanish-American War.
• Philippines - A Spanish colony annexed by the US after the Spanish-American War, leading to a protracted guerrilla war.
• Guantanamo Bay - A US military base in Cuba, secured as a result of the Spanish-American War.
• Guam - A Spanish colony annexed by the US.
• Puerto Rico - A Spanish colony annexed by the US.
• Khaki-Colored Canvas Material - Used for both enlisted men's and officers' uniforms during the Spanish-American War.
• Safari Khaki Suit - Made by Brooks Brothers for Theodore Roosevelt.
• British Khaki - Originated in India as a summer uniform, adopted by the US military during the Spanish-American War for its comfort and camouflage properties.
• Olive Green Drab - The official color adopted by the US Army in August 1904, chosen for its better camouflage in natural environments.